A

Absorption Base :: A mixture or compound that acts as a carrier for other ingredients and allows the product to be absorbed by the skin. These bases are used in moisturizers, lotions and conditioners.

Alcohol :: There are both natural alcohols and synthetic alcohols. Synthetic alcohols, such as isopropyl alcohol, are petroleum compounds: they have a strong odor and are a cheaper raw material. The “SD” alcohols (SD stands for “specially denatured”) are grain alcohols with various toxic substances added to them to prevent them from being rebottled and sold as beverages (such as SD alcohol 40). Natural alcohols are made by fermentation of starch, sugar, grains and various carbohydrates. They are often called “grain alcohol” or “ethyl alcohol”. Because they can dissolve oils, like your skin’s sebum, alcohol solutions can be drying. Natural alcohols are better tolerated by the skin, especially in balanced formulas.

Allantoin :: An extract from comfrey root used as a soothing agent and moisturizer. It can also be made from uric acid; bud the comfrey root type is superior. The finest quality allantoin is free of pyrrolizine alkaloids.

Almond Oil :: Oil extract from almonds, high in free fatty acids and far superior to synthetic oils. A good absorption base.

Aloe Vera :: Extract from the aloe vera plant used to soothe and hydrate the hair and skin. Works best in natural formulations.

Alpha Lipoic Acid :: A powerful antioxidant, 400 times more potent than vitamin E. Both lipid and water soluble, alpha lipoic acid actually boosts natural levels of vitamin C, vitamin E and glutathione in the skin, providing further protection from free radicals.

Amino Acid Complex (Cysteine, Methionine) :: A mixture of sulfur-rich amino acids essential to protein metabolism. Very nourishing ad balancing to the hair, skin and scalp. Non-toxic.

Antioxidants :: Substances that prevent the too-rapid oxidation of nutrients and counter the effect of cancer-causing free radicals into the body. Used in cosmetics to prevent oils or fats from becoming rancid. Natural antioxidants include green tea, grape seed extract, vitamins B-complex, C, and E, alpha lipoic acid and selenium, but synthetic ones such as BHA and BHT are often used.

Apricot Kernel Oil :: Persic oil, the natural oil from apricot pits. Used in cosmetics as an emollient and softener. Non-toxic.

Avocado Oil :: The natural oil of the avocado, high in free fatty acids. A good sense of vitamins A, D, and E, amino acids and sterols. Recommended for some dry skin problems. Non-toxic.

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B

Balm Mint :: Soothing agent particularly effective on sensitive skin and scalp. Non-toxic.

Bentonite- :: Naturally occurring mineral used in facial masks. It differs from true clay (kaolin) in that when mixed with a liquid, it forms a gel. Its rough texture can scratch and irritate the skin. Most bentonites are not toxic, but too much clay can be drying to the skin unless balanced with emollients.

Blue Cypress Oil :: Essential oil widely used in Australia for its woody fragrance and germ-zapping properties. An excellent freshening agent.

Blue Green Algae :: Made up of over 50% utilizable protein. Blue green algae is an excellent food source, used for thousands of years for its mild taste and easily assimilated nutrients. A good source on enzymes, minerals, trace minerals and antioxidants, its amino acid porifil is virtually identical to that of humans, which makes it excellent for the skin,. Used in hair care products for its protein content and conditioning properties.

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C

Calamine :: A natural blend of zinc oxide and a small amount of ferric oxide, used in skin lotions, ointments, and liniments for its calming effect on the skin. An excellent soothing agent. Non-toxic.

Calendula :: The common Marigold, used in cosmetics for its moisturizing and soothing effect on the skin. A frequent ingredient in ointments and natural deodorants. Contains saponins. Non-toxic.

Camomile Extract :: A softening agent for rough, dry skin and scalp, used since ancient times as a natural calming agent. It conditions the hair, adds natural highlights and leaves a pleasant fragrance. Non-toxic.

Canadian Willowherb :: Soothing agent shown in clinical studies to work faster and better than many hydrocortisone creams. A superb skin care ingredient.

Carnauba Wax :: Derived from the wax palm tree of Brazil. Used for gloss and texture in cosmetics. Non-toxic.

Carrageenan :: Seaweed gum obtained from varieties of red seaweed that grows along the Atlantic coast of Europe and North America. High in sulfur ad very nourishing to the skin, it is used as a stabilizer, binding agent and emulsifier in food and medicines. It should not be confused with poligeenan, also called degraded carrageenan, a highly processed form which is not used in foods and can have toxic properties.

Carrot Oil :: Natural extract from carrots, rich in beta carotene (a precursor to vitamin A) and vitamin E. Also used as a natural coloring agent in some cosmetics. Non-toxic.

Chlorophyll :: Derived from plants and used in some cosmetics as a freshener and natural color. It can induce sensitivity to light.

Citric Acid :: An extract from citrus fruits, used as a natural pH adjuster in cosmetics. Non-toxic.

Cocoa Butter :: A solid fat expressed from the roasted seeds of Theabroma cacao, this rich emollient is used in lipsticks, creams, soaps and suncare products for its moisturizing properties.

Collagen :: Dermal protein that makes up 70% of the skin. Applied topically, it raises the skin’s moisture level and smoothes texture. Used in cosmetics, it is a beef by-product.

Coltsfoot :: Superb skin nutrient high in polysaccharides, vitamin C and zinc. An excellent soothing agent, it helps soften and smooth the skin. Combined with horsetail in hair care preparations, it strengthens and smoothes hair fiber and promotes scalp health.

Cucumber :: Used in face creams, lotions and cleansers for its soothing and freshening properties on the skin.

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E

Emulsion :: Two dissimilar liquids homogeneously combined. Most face creams and conditioners are emulsions frequently held together with synthetic petrochemicals such as sodium lauryl sulfate, propylene glycol, PEG and PPG. Another way to hold an emulsion together is with vigorous mixing.

Ester-C :: A patented form of vitamin C clinically shown to retain its potency longer than other forms. A powerful antioxidant, vitamin C is very beneficial to the skin. (Ester-C is a registered trademark of Inter-Cal Corporation.)

Evening Primrose Oil :: A superb emollient and skin nutrient, high in gamma-linolenic acid, an essential fatty acid found in breast milk. Excellent for dry skin and scalp problems.

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F

Fatty Acid Esters :: Waxes derived from plants and animals, used in absorption bases and as emulsifiers in cosmetics. Cetyl alcohols from coconut palm kernels and lanolin from wool are examples of fatty acid esters.

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G

Grape Seed Extract :: One of the most powerful antioxidants around, high in proanthocyanidins, a group of bioflavonoids that are water soluble and more easily assimilated by the body. A hard-working free-radical scavenger, grape seed extract helps prevent skin cell damage and improve texture.

Green Tea :: A powerful antioxidant, 20 times stronger than vitamin E. Helps prevent free radical damage (caused by sun exposure and pollution) and protect and revitalize the skin. Used in creams, lotions and suncare products, it is very soothing and moisturizing.

Gums :: Gum Arabic (acacia), gum tragacanth, benzion and guar gum are natural herbal gums used as binding and thickening agents in cosmetics, primarily in styling gels and hair sprays. Synthetic thickeners like CMC and PVP are commonly used, but they can be drying for the hair and scalp.

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H

Humectants :: Natural or synthetic compounds used to prevent water loss and drying of the skin. They provide a smooth feel to cosmetics. Vegetable glycerin and jojoba oil are examples of natural humectants; propylene glycol is synthetic.

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J

Jojoba Oil :: Extracts of the jojoba plant, a liquid wax that actually attracts and retains moisture. This natural oil is highly stable and very effective on dry skin and scalp, damaged hair and split ends.

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K

Kaolin : A fine, natural clay from Mt. Kaolin in China, known for its drawing properties. Often used in deep cleansing masks.

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L

Lactic Acid :: Acid naturally occurring in milk, which produces pH levels like those of the hair and skin. An excellent moisturizer.

Lecithin :: A vegetable extract high in natural fatty acids. Most common sources are soybean oil and eggs.

Lipids :: The fat-like substances which occur in plants and animals. They are compounded into some cosmetic oils.

Liposomes:: Microscopic capsules made from fatty substances, used in creams and lotions to deliver emollients and nutrients contained within the capsule into the skin. Liposomes can be obtained from synthetic or natural sources.

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M

Methyl Salicylate :: The active ingredient in wintergreen oil. When listed as “methyl salicylate”. It is probably synthetic.

Menthol :: Derived from peppermint oil. Used for its freshening and soothing properties.

Methyl Cellulose :: Partly natural, partly synthetic, substance from wood pulp, a thickening agent in cosmetics. Can cause skin irritations. Toxicity unknown.

Milk Thistle :: Its active compound, silymarin, a flavonoid with strong antioxidant properties, helps protect skin cells fro free radical damage cause by sun exposure and pollution.

Myrrh :: A superb stimulant, its mild freshening action is ideal for sensitive skin. Often used as a fragrance.

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N

Nettle :: An excellent tonic, high in phosphates and trace minerals. In hair care products, it helps keep scalp clear and promotes healthy hair. Very soothing to the skin. Non-toxic.

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O

Olive Oil Castile :: Olive oil saponified with an alkaline salt makes an excellent soap, mild and soothing to the skin.

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P

Panthenol :: (Vitamins B-5) A natural thickener, it helps give hair body and hold. An excellent nutrient and hydrator, very beneficial to the skin and scalp. Sometimes known as pantothenic acid.

Phospholipids :: Principal components of cell membranes, which attract and retain moisture. The main source of plant phospholipids is lecithin, a by product of soybean oil.

Potassium Alum :: Natural mineral used for its astringent properties.

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R

Rosemary Essential Oil :: An antioxidant and freshener. Has excellent soothing and toning properties on hair and skin.

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S

Sage Essential Oil :: Has calming and toning properties on hair and scalp. Often used with rosemary to help promote scalp health.

Sea Buckthorn Oil :: Richest herbal source of antioxidant vitamin E and A (beta carotene and other carotenoids), which help prevent the formation of free radicals. Is high in essential fatty acids, particularly rare palmitoleic acid, a constituent of the skin’s sebum.

Sodium Hyaluronate :: A powerful humectant, this naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan is used in anti-wrinkle creams for its ability to attract and retain moisture to the skin for long periods of time.

Sodium PCA :: A natural plant protein used in small amounts in toners, astringents and lotions for its humectant properties.

Sorbitan Stearate :: A fatty acid derivative with some synthetic chemicals compounded into it for the purpose of solubilizing emulsions.

Sorbitol :: Derived from fruit and/or algae. Stabilizes and gives a smooth feel to lotions. Non-toxic.

Stearates :: A group of fatty acid derivatives used to produce emulsions in creams and lotions. Can be prepared with petrochemicals.

Stearic Acid :: A fatty acid from tallow, butter acids, animal fats or vegetable oils. Used in cosmetic creams to add pearliness and firmness. Possible sensitizer.

Sterols :: Solid alcohols from animals or plants. Usually non-toxic.

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V

Vegetable Glycerin :: A rich humectant derived from vegetable oils. Non-toxic.

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